Lace is not only eternal, it has been around for ages … it has lived through needlepoint, the first weaving looms, Belle Epoque dresses and 1950s hat veils. It may have been eclipsed in certain periods (for example, the emancipation of women in May ’68) but it’s still there … as splendid and desirable as ever ! The reasons for its longevity? Florence Peyrichou, director of the NellyRodi trend office lingerie studio, offers some answers.
Why is lace still modern today ?
Because it is a noble, delicate, feminine fabric. With social networks, the super-dramatization of the body is at its height and what could be more normal than using lace to reveal one’s attributes. Modesty is a thing of the past. “Cover that breast that I don’t wish to see”, Molière would have written in another era … However lace is also a wish to awaken desire in others. Lace (especially lingerie) is also closely associated with erotic paraphernalia. Because yes, this intimate parcel – our body – that we don’t reveal at first glance attracts curiosity and, of course, desire. This is why – in long or short lengths – lace has survived over time … and through different fashions !
In the trends you observe for the NellyRodi agency, who wears lace and how ?
Young women like lace and wear it in shifted, very visible ways, taking inspiration from “It” girls or singers like Rihanna or Beyoncé who themselves take inspiration from Madonna, already a fan of lace in the 1980s. Lace is today present for all occasions, it can be paired with jeans or tuxedo pants in a casual or more classic mood. It can be vintage – or modern – in geometric patterns. We saw a wave of lace in the Spring-Summer 2016 shows at Alberta Ferretti, Simone Rocha, Erdem : these beautiful laces, generally made in France, are often not stretchy. In fast fashion, we see lace at & Other Stories or American Apparel.
How do you see lace evolving in the years to come ?
It will always be present : it’s essential for the wardrobe and in a woman’s closet. Today’s lace patterns are modernized in propositions that are more geometric and less floral. Lace can be paired with contemporary materials and techniques or found in unusual colors such as khaki, mustard or caramel instead of black and white … Yes, lace will definitely continue to transcend eras and fashions !
Laces (from left to right):
Interdit d’interdire – Ref: 148223.23/130 PM 2515, Electron libre – Ref: 80 914.2/90 MG 27, Mouvement perpétuel – Ref: 80694.2/90, Bad girl – Ref: 80154.2/85 RIN 4