Student at Central Saint Martins and winner of the LVMH Scholarship Grand Prize in 2015 and the Sophie Hallette Award in 2016, the young Ukranian Sergiy Grechyshkin claims to have never attended an art or fashion school. This freshness gives him his strength and allows him to develop a design method he describes as being “experimental and spontaneous”. His talent caught the eye of Sophie Hallette who sponsored his lace silhouettes in the school’s press show. A conversation with a young man as determined as he is talented.
Can you summarize your project in a few words …
The research for my project was based on the ritual of bacchanalia since its elements are present in many cultures and eras. I specifically looked at the 20’s and “flapper” girls, not only for shapes, silhouettes and colors but also for attitude. By using objects from everyday life, I did many spontaneous experiments and took inspiration from the chaotic painting style of Cy Twombly. I looked at materials that would express danger and fragility like porcelain, netting, mesh, lace, cut paper flowers, etc. I developed accessories to represent violence and cannibalism that refer to bacchanalia as well. The focus of the collection is not only colors and silhouettes but also combinations of a feminine look with a masculine attitude. The movements of the clothes and accessories are important in this project too.
Historically lace was always considered a luxury item because of its cost and beauty. The skills and time spent on producing it make it extremely special. In a high-speed society, we all try to possess unique, special things and now we want to own “slow” objects as well. From the beginning of my project, I looked for materials that represented danger and fragility so lace seemed a perfect choice. Lace’s color qualities also strongly influenced my choice.
And regarding your unique work with lace …
I find it boring to use conventional methods to develop materials, especially those with a great history and tradition. So I tried to transform lace’s appearance and not just use it for decoration. I wanted to show its beauty and my clothing constructions helped me do this in the best possible way. I stretched the lace on lightweight frames and then incorporated it into the silhouettes.
The near … and distant … future
(Just before the show) My strongest desire is to get some sleep right now. I’m thrilled to see the collection in motion since I’ve been working long months in the studio. Now I want to sit back and relax. But more than that, I want to see what my classmates have done. We never see each other’s finished work in a whole collection. And later … I do have ambitions but I’d like to start my career working with an established brand and found my own business later. I have a business idea I’d like to develop in the future.
Photo credits: 1Granary